Los Picos is “a place for coffee, sandwiches and wine” in Russafa, with a terrace on a small square. On the grinders the coffee has come from San Agustín, the León roaster, and from Right Side in Barcelona, with The Fix from Madrid on filter, and Right Side beans have been sold to take home.

The kitchen is built around sandwiches. The Cuban has a devoted following, and its deluxe version slow-cooks the meat until it falls apart and swaps the ham for cecina de León, all inside a crisp ciabatta from the bakery Le Roi. A grilled cheese with creamy tomato soup began as a year-end special and stayed on the menu after customers kept asking for it. Weekly “bonus track” specials fill the board, and the wines by the glass change at the whim of whoever is writing the list.

The house rules are short: no reservations, no decaf, no wifi and no gluten-free options. In 2023 Los Picos held its prices while costs rose, choosing to earn less rather than lower the quality of the espresso, the wine or the sandwiches.

Coffee on the shelf

Photograph: Los Picos Café